My back entry/mudroom is a real mess, and in desperate need of a makeover. When Bosch contacted me to see if I’d be interested in joining their #WinterProject campaign, I jumped at the chance. I’m going to tackle the mudroom one section at a time, starting with adding a board and batten wall with hooks so we can hang all our coats and hats on it. A perfect winter job.
This was my inspiration picture from The DIY Mommy. You can see more of my inspiration ideas in our post Mudroom Inspiration Ideas.
Drawing up the Plans
The first step was to measure up my wall and work out just where I wanted the board and batten to go and what size timber I needed to buy. This is the wall. It runs from the doorway to our carport and the doorway to our downstairs hallway. This is the entrance we use every time we use the car.
Here is my sketch of where I wanted the board and batten to go
The base board needed to be high enough to cover the tiles at the bottom so I needed 184mm high and 2.4metres long. The other 2 horizontal boards where the hooks will go didn’t need to be as wide, so 140mm x 2.4metres would do. I chose to keep the vertical boards on the side the same width as the horizontal boards, so 140mm x 1.8metres. For the vertical battens I chose 64mm wide boards, so 5 boards at 1.8m long.
- Pine board (as per the dimensions above)
- Cordless Drill (kindly supplied by Bosch) and 40mm screws
- Liquid Nails (adhesive)
- Wood filler, Gap Filler and caulking gun
- Paint – I used Dulux Vivid White Aqua Enamel Gloss
Step by Step Board and Batten Wall
Step 1 – Assess the Wall
The first step was to work out exactly what I would be drilling into. The wall appears to be plywood sheeting covered in a thin layer of plaster. The reverse side of the wall is VJ boards and there is a stud wall in between. As there are power points and light switches on the other side of the wall, I wanted to make sure I was drilling into the studs so I would avoid drilling into electrical wiring and so the coat hooks would be properly anchored.
With the help of my neighbour Chas, we were able to find the studs and mark them on the wall. We also marked where the power points were on the other side of the wall so I could avoid drilling in that area.
Step 2 – Install the Base Board
I measured the length of the wall between the door doors and cut the baseboard to size. There was a timber board running above the tile line so I was able to screw the baseboard all along the wall.
Step 3 – Install the Vertical Side Boards
Next I secured the two vertical side pieces of timber to the walls. I left these at 1.8 metres long.
I predrilled the timber before screwing it to the walls. I used a 3.5mm drill bit for the pilot holes and a 8.5mm drill bit to create a space to countersink the screw heads.
Step 4 – Install the Horizontal Boards
Installing the top and centre horizontal boards was just a case of measuring between the two vertical boards and cutting the timber to size. I screwed the board to the wall into the studs, and made sure the boards were level.
I made the height of the centre board low enough that a jacket hanging from the top board would not cover the hooks on the centre board. The centre board is 92 – 106cm from the floor. The top board is approx 188 – 202cm from the floor.
Step 5 – Install the Vertical Batten Boards
Once the horizontal boards were in place I could work out the length and spacing of my vertical boards. Here’s how I worked it out:
Length of wall between side vertical panels is 214cm. I was using 5 vertical battens at 65mm wide, so 5 x 65mm = 32.5cm. So wall length minus total width of battens is 214-32.5 = 181.5cm. 5 battens creates 6 spaces, so 181.5 divided by 6 is 30.25cm. This is the space I needed to leave between each vertical board.
I marked this out in pencil on the wall. Measure 30.25cm, then make 2 vertical lines 65mm apart to represent the batten, and so on. I used a spirit level to make sure my vertical lines were straight. I labelled the top row A1 – A5, and the bottom row B1 – B5. For each batten I measured the vertical distance and cut them to size. I used my Dad’s circular saw so cutting all the battens was a breeze.
As the battens are purely decorative and don’t hold any weight, I used liquid nails to glue the battens to the wall. You could also use a nail gun if you have one.
Step 6 – Painting & Preparation
To prepare the wall for painting, I used wood filler to cover all the counter sunk screws. I then used a caulking gun with gap filler to go around all the timber edges and fill any gaps. Use a wet cloth to wipe away the excess and create a smooth join. I used a small hand sander over the entire surface before painting.
To paint, I used Taubmans 3 in 1 sealer, primer and undercoat and all the raw timber. I also painted the back and underside of the base board before I installed it, to protect the timber from any water on the floor. I followed this with 3 coats of Dulux Aqua enamel gloss in Vivid White, which I applied with a brush.
Step 7 – Install the hooks
The final step to complete my board and batten wall was to screw the hooks into place. I bought some decorative black Tradco hooks from Early Settler.
I worked out where I wanted the hooks to go, and marked the two screw holes. I then used my Bosch cordless drill to pre-drill the holes. I changed the drill bit for the screwdriver bit and easily screwed the hooks to the wall.
This project was made so easy by the use of the Bosch cordless drill. I normally use a hand screwdriver for screws, but the Bosch cordless drill allows you to control the speed of the screwdriver bit so you don’t burr the screw. It was also easy to take the screws out just by hitting the reverse button. I can see that I will get a lot of use out of this drill.
I am so happy with how the wall turned out. A perfect #WinterProject. Of course the wall puts the rest of the room to shame, and now I will need to makeover the rest of the room, so stay tuned.